The main reason we all headed up to Zambia was to see Victoria Falls, one of the seven wonders of the world. I visited both the Zambian side of Victoria Falls and the Zimbabwean side. Each were stunning in their own ways, and each reflected the flavor of the country. The Zambia side was much less developed, and you could see the falls very close up and intimately-- there weren't guard rails anywhere and you could hike down to the bottom to see the whirlpool, or to the top and stand in the water a few feet before it spilled over the edge. Don't worry, Mom, I was a wimp and only dipped a toe in the water! Most of the other travelers we saw were either young backpackers, or African tourists. The Zimbabwean National Park was the exact opposite. The trails were well paved and fenced, and we saw many well to do travelers accompanied by guides. The view of the falls was much more majestic and you could see a lot more of the falls, but there weren't any places where you could just sit and soak up the beauty and power of nature like there were in the Zambian park. I was very glad I was able to see both sides, because I liked them both for different reasons. The rest of our day in Zimbabwe was quite an experience. I had been warned that it was very unsafe and that we would be hassled a lot on the street, but we arrived to a very clean and orderly town with the most souvenir shops I have seen in all of Africa! We did have a couple dozen men approach us on the street but they were mostly selling us the old Zimbabwean dollars, which I happily purchased (once). How cool is it to hold a $5 trillion dollar bank note??
For the middle part of our trip, Emily and I headed into Botswana to go on a safari in Chobe National Park. We went on a morning boat cruise with a variety of travelers of all ages and walks of life. We had a delicious lunch, which was a welcome change from the peanut butter and apple sandwiches we had been living off of at the backpackers! In the afternoon, we split up into smaller groups for the game drive, and Emily and I ended up with two Australian girls in their 20s, which was perfect for us. We drove in an open safari truck down a bumpy track right next to the Zambezi river, and we saw dozens and dozens of elephants! The park alone has over 120,000 elephants. We also so herds of water buffalo, warthogs, and various antelope species. Just as we were turning back to leave for the day, another safari vehicle came barreling down the road at us. The driver shouted a few words to our driver and we immediately turned around and followed suit. Turns out, someone had spotted (pun intended) a leopard!! This completed the "Big 5" list for me and Emily. Almost more interesting than the leopard itself was watching all the tourists watch the leopard. At night, we camped in the middle of the park (with our guides) and we even had an elephant come up to the camp at dusk.
After saying goodbye to our Australian friends, we headed back to Jollyboys for the night, and confirmed the last leg of our trip-- a stay on a remote island in the middle of the Zambezi. We weren't getting picked up for the island until 2, so we had a morning free in Livingstone. As we were eating breakfast, the owner of the hostel approached us and explained that her boyfriend was filming a promotional video for the Royal Livingstone Hotel's boat tours and asked if we would like to be in it. Naturally, we jumped at the chance to be famous and see a fancy hotel. So after entering the hotel, we got sped around on a speedboat for a few hours getting filmed watched hippos and elephants. So surreal.
After a bumpy hour and a half in the back of a pickup, we arrived at Jungle Junction and Bovu Island and got canoed across to our accommodations. We had paid for a package deal that included 2 nights in a hut, all meals, all activities, and transport to and from Livingstone. When we got there there were only a few other travelers there, so we got upgraded to the fancy river-view chalets. The rooms were made from bamboo and elevated so you could see the marsh and the river flowing by, the front wall of the room was entirely mesh, so it really felt as if you were sleeping outside, we could even hear and see monkeys chattering in the trees. Complete paradise. The island was one kilometer long, beautiful and lush, and had no electricity so the stars at night were amazing. We ended up spending a lot of time with two British guys, and then the 2 Australian girls from our safari ended up joining us on the second night. It was so nice and refreshing to just totally relax with fellow travelers-- read in hammocks, play cards, and shower outside (but in real showers, not buckets!). We took a sunset canoe ride and managed to catch some fish, which I had never done before. We were extremely sad to leave such a beautiful, relaxing and magical place, but the day came and we bounced and jolted our way back to Livingstone.
Our bus left for Windhoek at 11:30am on Sunday and we arrived at 9am on Monday. Quite a lot of traveling! Our bus driver decided to slow down to a STOP for every pothole we encountered. And for some reason, we kept getting stopped at police checkpoints by Namibian customs agents who demanded everyone off the bus so they could throughly search it. They never found anything, but it sure delayed things. Now we are back to the routine in Windhoek, although I really feel like I should be in Malawi right now, since everyone we met had either just visited Malawi or were on their way. In all, break was a wonderful chance to meet fellow travelers, do things at our own pace, relax, and re-instilled my desire to seek out further opportunities for travel in the future.
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