Thursday, June 21, 2012
Final Thoughts
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Final Week: Cape Town!
Our guest house was in the "city bowl," which is the area in between the giant and majestic Table Mountain, and the ocean. We were about two blocks away from Long Street, the main drag with tons of restaurants, bars, and backpacker's lodges. For the course of the week, we toured with the program most days, but we were also given ample time to explore on our own and slowly adjust to a different pace of life, a pace more similar to our cities back home in the states.
A few highlights of the week included: visiting Robben Island, which is where political prisoners such as Nelson Mandela were housed during apartheid, a trip to Cape Point to see the farthest most south-west tip of the African continent and where the Atlantic and Indian oceans converge, wine-tasting in the fertile Cape winelands, and a brief visit to a penguin colony.
Another fascinating aspect of the week was learning about the "Cape Coloured" identity. When the area was just a colony, the Dutch East India company imported slave labor from the West and East coasts of Africa, as well as Madagascar, India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia and other South East Asian countries. After generations of intermarriage and intercultural blending, the result is the "coloured population." During apartheid, they were given slightly more preferential treatment than the black population, but were second class citizens to whites. In the 1970s, the apartheid government razed the neighborhood of "District 6," which was home to working class coloured people, because it was located in the desirable real estate of the city bowl. They moved the displaced population to an area called Manenberg, which was little more than a swamp land on the other side of Table Mountain. The effects of this move caused strain on families. Parents had a longer commute into the city for work and could not keep as close an eye on their children, and children had no safe places to hang out and play and began creating gangs and turning to drugs. We visited an organization that is working to reverse some of the problems facing the community by improving youth employment. While this provides hope for the future, the fact remains that people are still living in squalid conditions and unsafe neighborhoods, and that the poorest demographics are still largely separated by race, despite the end of legal sanctions enforcing racial segregation.
A fun discovery for me was the Eastern Food Bazaar, located on a side ally near Long Street. Essentially, it is a large food court specializing in Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine at rock bottom prices. You order at a central cashier stand, and then wait at the various counters for your food to be prepared. I particularly enjoyed masala dosas, which had been recommended to me by a friend, as well as a medley of curries. Mango lhassies and masala tea were a perfect way to cool down my mouth in between spicy bites. Needless to say, I think I visited this place at least three times during my week in Cape Town.
Overall, Cape Town was an interesting change from our lifestyle in Namibia. Lush parks, a beautiful harbor, fancy restaurants, and an abundance of white people, made us feel like we were perhaps in Montreal or Vancouver, BC. It was also a strange time of feeling as if we were in limbo. We had already had an emotional goodbye to Namibia, and we were carting around all of our possessions and living out of our suitcases. It definitely felt like a time of transition.
Table Mountain from the Waterfront |
Friends at Cape Point |
The Point itself |
Penguins! |
The colorful Bo-Kaap neighborhood |
Thursday, May 10, 2012
The end of an era
Another highlight from my last week was heading to the outskirts of Windhoek with the Young Achievers for Global Youth Day. They organized an amazing program for kids and adults living in the informal settlement of Kilimanjaro to discuss pertinent issues such as staying in school, having goals and dreams, safe sex and healthy relationships. I was so proud of my Young Achievers friends who organized such an inspiring outreach event. It was so wonderful to see Namibians helping fellow Namibians as well. Often times, outreach events are organized by NGOs that have ties with the European Union or a foreign aid organization. There was something very special about seeing local youth working to empower their peers.
I had some very heart-felt goodbyes with my Katatura host family, my dear fellow intern friend from the Ministry, my friends from Young Achievers, other locals I had met throughout the semester, and the CGE program staff. We cleaned and packed up the whole house and headed to the airport on April 29th. The drive to the airport was nice because we drove all the way across town, giving us the chance to say goodbye to favorite shopping centers, restaurants, and old hangouts.
Culture shock began when we entered the airport in Windhoek. When we landed there in January, I thought it was kind of a small, unimpressive place in the middle of nowhere. When I used the restroom those many months back, I even believe a roach scuttled across my foot. When we arrived this time, we were impressed by how slick and modern everything felt...there was even air-conditioning! The bathrooms felt luxurious because there was: a door that locked, a toilet that flushed, toilet paper, a sink with running water, SOAP, a mirror, and papertowels. Paradise! Usually, we found ourselves with some strange combination of those services, but never all at once!
Young Achievers and youth in Kilimanjaro
Integrative Project Presentation
Saturday, April 21, 2012
Adventures in Eating
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Trip to the South
Last weekend, CGE took us down south for a long weekend to learn about community-based natural resource management and tourism. We stayed at three different campsites for one night each. After driving about an hour out of Windhoek, the landscape changed dramatically. The lush, rolling hills were replaced by a dry, flat desert landscape. The first night, we stayed at a community run campsite that overlooked the very dried out Fish River and, in the distance, the Brukkaros Mountain. They had been given funding by the European Union in order to establish bathrooms and camping facilities. The community cooked us a delicious dinner of lamb, bread, and a variety of salads. We later found out that we were the first visitors to ever stay at their campground! It was quite an honor, and the whole experience was wonderful, with the exception of an infestation of "needle snakes," who were the size of worms that had a very poisonous bite! The next day, the community leader took us to a nearby natural hot spring and a waterfall, which was quite a treat. If only the campsite had access to better marketing materials so that more tourists could know about this hidden gem!
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Shopping: A cultural experience?
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Spring Break!
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Rural Homestay
I'm back after 3 weeks of traveling! I'm planning on posting a couple blog entries to get you all caught up.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Travel Seminar to the Coast!
The Center for Global Education (CGE) took us on a long weekend trip to the coast where we visited the towns of Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. The car ride (kombi is the name of the 20 seater van we ride in) there was four hours and it was fascinating to see the scenery change. We left Windhoek passing through lush rolling hills and mountains, we then journeyed through the Otjozondjupa region which had flat grassy plains and tall purple craggy mountains, and finally passed through the flat and sandy Namib Desert before reaching Swakop-- a large touristy beach town with very German architecture.
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Windhoek Wanderings
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Katatura Homestay
This past week I have been living with a host family and traveling to the Center only to attend classes. I lucked out and had the most welcoming and energetic family that kept me both perpetually entertained and perpetually learning throughout the entire experience. Their house was located in Katatura, which is a township about a 10 minute drive from downtown Windhoek. Before independence, Katatura was segregated based on tribes- a strategy the colonial government used to keep the black population divided and less likely to come together and revolt. My home was located in the old "Oshiwambo location," and while my family did speak primarily a dialect of Oshiwambo at home, Katatura is no longer segregated any longer. It does still remain a relatively low-income area- there were seven people living in an originally two bedroom house- which was made larger by several sturdily built metal rooms in the backyard. The toilet room, a stucco room in the backyard, also functioned as the shower room, and water from the sink drained into buckets outside that had to be routinely emptied. Despite a slightly cramped environment, the family all got along well, with everyone pitching out to wash dishes or clothes, and everyone gathering in the living room to eat meals together or watch movies. I can't possibly describe everything, but here are some of my most interesting adventures:
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Welcome to Windhoek
Today, I have officially been in Namibia for two weeks, but it feels like so much longer and Windhoek is starting to feel like a second home. All 16 of us on the program are living and going to school in a large house situated about a 10 minute walk from downtown. We are all starting to get into more established routines, a nice change of pace from the frenzied touring we did in South Africa. I have either a politics, history, or development class in the mornings, and then afternoons I take Oshiwambo language class, an internship class, or yoga. I have been placed at an internship with the Ministry of Gender Equality and Child Welfare in their statistical research division. I go there from 8 to 5 on Mondays and from 8 to 1 on Wednesdays. So far it has been quite the eye opening experience. The Ministry does not get funds from the government until March which means that while they have money to operate, they do not have funds to implement any of their projects. In the meantime, most of the employees are taking Master's classes and use the downtime to focus on their education. On the positive side, there is another intern who graduated from the University of Namibia and we have become friends. It has been interesting to hear with her experiences trying to find work post-graduation. Just as in the USA, college grads are having a hard time to find meaningful employment. In addition, all the other employees are eager to help me learn about the government, and even volunteered to set up meetings with other government officials if I want to create my own research project. So if anyone has any research suggestions, I am all ears. If the Ministry job is going to be on the slower side for the next few weeks, I am eager to take initiative of my own learning and figure out something fun to do with my time.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
South Africa Wrap Up
On our last day in South Africa, we went to Pretoria, the nation’s capital and about an hours drive from Jo’burg. We first went to the Voortrekker monument, a giant building built to commorate the Afrikaaner pioneers who went on the “Great Trek” from Cape town to the inland areas of SA in the 1800s. It was built in the 1930s in the Art Deco style. I went into the day thinking that it was going to be very racist and controversial. But after looking through the exhibits, the Voortrekkers seemed to be the exact same as the America’s heroic westward traveling pioneers. They even wore sunbonnets and used oxen powered covered wagons. The monument really served as a slap in the face in terms of my interpretation of American history. The problem is that we rarely get to hear the side of the Native Americans, while in SA we often hear the perspective of the original people. History really is determined by those who conquered. Anyway, the monument was really cool- even engineered so that on December 16th, the date of a large battle, a ray of sunlight shines into the monument over the tomb of the unknown Voortrekker. We also saw zebras right outside of the monument!
After the monument, we went to the US Embassy. After going through heavy security checks, we met with the Senior political advisor, a cultural affairs officer, and the deputy press attaché. They gave us information about the role of the embassy and about the process of entering into a career with the State Department. It re-inspired me to consider a career with them. Afterwards, we headed to the University of Pretoria to meet with a history professor who was also an Afrikaaner. He explained the Great Trek more fully and had an interesting observation about the end of apartheid. He said that the Afrikaaner community felt apartheid was justified as long as the United States imposed segregation as well. After the civil rights movement, the Cold War was in progress and since the ANC, the group in charge of the liberation movement, was also unashamedly communist, the US was afraid an ANC government takeover would mean losing an ally in the Cold War as well as losing access to the supply of strategic metals necessary to produce nuclear weapons. So the US chose to support the white dominated government to maintain its own security and stability. Only after the end of the Cold War did the US become outspoken in ending apartheid. It was a very interesting point of view that I would have never considered otherwise. He was also a very entertaining professor and told me afterwards that he had been to Oregon and visited the Bonneville Dam and hiked up Eagle Creek! Small world.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Jo'burg 2
During the second half of our first week in Jo’burg, we left Soweto and ventured into downtown Jo’burg. It was just like any other large city- busy streets, tall buildings, and business people in suits no matter the heat. Jo’burg is the economic and financial capital of the country as was apparent by the number of bank buildings we passed over the span of a few blocks.
We had the opportunity to speak with a representative of the Democratic Alliance party and then immediately afterwards to talk to representatives of the ANC-the dominant party. The man from the DA said that one of the challenges to South African politics today is that the ANC is still seen as the liberation party, and has been in power since 1994. He suggested that because the party is blindly supported as benevolent liberators, the ANC is not pushed to improve its provision of services to the public because they don’t have an incentive to (ie. no real political competition). His point was validated when we visited the ANC offices and were treated to a detailed and glorious history of the past 100 years the party has been in power. However when we asked them about current political policies and challenges there was much hemming and hawing to be done. As I learned in my African politics class, liberation movement leaders often become presidents because they have the popular support, but it becomes easy for them to hold on to the power and hard for democratic transitions to occur fully. I met people who said that there was no doubt in their minds that the ANC would win the next election; it was just a matter of figuring out who the ANC would elect as their presidential candidate. To me, South Africa is not quite a true democracy yet because there is no real competition between parties and voters base their decisions on the past and party loyalty rather than on policy or on a charismatic leader.
This weekend I got the opportunity to stay with a black South African family with another girl from my program. We were supposed to be living in Soweto, in order to really soak in the culture that we had been studying for the past week. My family however, had moved from Soweto to the suburbs and lived about 45 minutes outside of Jo’burg. It was a family of 4: Mom, Dad, daughter aged 17, and son aged 9. The daughter was born in 1994 and her name is Nonkululeko, meaning freedom. It was interesting to talk to her and hear about her beliefs growing up in a world that never experienced apartheid. Much of her life was very similar to ours in the US- lot of homework and worry about applying to university, a cell phone addiction, getting excited about prom. One thing I felt that was different and admirable was the strong moral compass she and her friends all had. They were comfortable with their beliefs whether they were concerning religion, women’s rights, moral behavior, or sex. I think it takes most American teenagers much more time to figure out what they believe and who they think they are. On the other hand, South Africa is a pretty socially conservative society and perhaps it is easier to take a strong stance on issues, while in the US there is more flexibility in terms of what your culture tells you to think. We were treated to traditional foods such as “dumplings,” which was steamed bread, and “pap,” a thick mashed potato like dish made from maize-meal. We also had a braaii (BBQ) and some vegetable dishes. All in all, I was lucky to have the opportunity to live with a host family for the weekend, even though the circumstances were somewhat different than what I had expected.
Some final observations; now that we are reunited with the group. I am realizing how much I value alone time for reflection and rejuvenation. They say there are 2 types of people, those who draw energy from participating in large groups, and those who find themselves drained by a large, loud environment. I am learning that I fall into the second group. While I love connecting with my fellow travelers, after a whole day of learning/driving/eating together, I am ready for some alone time by the evening. Instead of feeling bad or anti-social about this, I’m taking the time for myself, knowing if I do, I will be able to be my best self around others the next day. That’s all for now, tomorrow we visit the US embassy in Pretoria and on Wednesday we fly to Namibia!
**Note: The internet crashed so I wrote this yesterday and posted this a day late. Look for a new post about Pretoria soon! And I fly to Namibia tomorrow J
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Journey to Johannesburg
After 16 and a half hours of flying- 7 to Dakar, Senegal plus an hour wait inside the plane, plus another 8 and a half to South Africa, we made it to Johannesburg. First observations were that it didn’t feel a whole lot like a place outside of the United States, aside from the fact that cars drive on the left side of the road. Since all signs and advertisements are written in English, I didn’t get the usual culture shock I get in most countries of trying to decipher foreign words. Additionally the cars are a pretty normal size, unlike the miniature ones the Europeans scurry around in. Even the weather was fairly normal. It’s been overcast and windy- not more than 70 at the hottest. I even wore jeans today!
While in Johannesburg the 16 of us students plus the professor and intern are staying at a guesthouse in a suburb outside of Jo’burg. It has quite a history, built in 1911 and served as a secondary school and seminary for young black men such as Desmond Tutu (!). It is a perfect place for us to adjust to the 10 hour time change and take everything in. All the buildings are open air and the courtyard is filled with shady trees and tropical flowers, a beautiful contrast with the stately brick buildings. We eat breakfast and dinner here and I was surprised to realize that South African food is heavily influenced by British cuisine; I guess I should have suspected that since they were under British colonial rule for so long. This has led to food such as beans on toast for breakfast, marmalade, lots of tea at all times of the day, beef stew, and puddings of all types.
The last few days we have been exploring Soweto, the largest township in South Africa. It houses an estimated 3-5 million people in a 16 by 23 km area. This was the area where many blacks lived during apartheid because it was within close proximity to the city, where they could work but not live. Today, I was surprised by the vastness of the area and the economic diversity within its boundaries. From how the area was presented by the media and in articles I had read, I imagined the entire area to be a sprawling slum. However I was surprised to see very nice homes, a university, a shopping mall nicer than my own back home, and the largest state hospital within its borders. We also saw Nelson Mandela’s house and some liberation struggle museums within Soweto. Today we visited Kliptown, which was a much more impoverished area of Soweto. Most residents were unemployed and received little if any help from the government, except the use of porta-potties, which were distributed one per 25 families. The root causes, that I could discern from the situation, was a lack of means to attain a quality education- there are no schools in Kliptown and children must walk far to attend even primary school, which then creates unemployability. The lack of utility services was also a noticeable problem. Lastly, we were told that illegal immigrants often end up in informal settlements such as this one because they lack proper documents to qualify for other housing. On a positive note, we were made welcome in the community, despite our feelings of self-consciousness trooped through someone else’s neighborhood. Kliptown is a forgotten part of Jo’burg and the impression I got was that residents were glad someone was taking the time to learn about them and the daily challenges they face. My overall impression of Soweto is that today it is as economically diverse as if it was its own city. Perhaps if it was treated as its own independent entity it could get funding for services more easily than today, as it is treated the same way as it was pre-apartheid- simply as a township adjacent to the larger city of Johannesburg.
That's all for now, I stay with a host family in Soweto this weekend, and I can't wait to experience South African food and culture firsthand!